Tuesday, April 2, 2013

The magic of Prague

Sorry I'm super behind on these posts. I keep traveling (oh bummer). But now I'm back in Berlin for the next two weeks with lots of papers to write as well as a few friends coming to visit. Now, finally, the promised Prague post!

I think I sometimes get the Czech Republic confused with Romania, because half the time I kept thinking about vampires. It might also have something to do with the general darkness of the woods we traveled past, but I also think it is true that many people confuse the tiny countries in eastern Europe, because they are so little known, and all of them were hidden behind the Iron Curtain for many years. Not to mention that the country names and boarders have changed again and again over the past 100 years. The Czech Republic and Slovakia alone were condensed into Czechoslovakia after World War I, and in 1993 was dissolved back into two separate states. After traveling through the German countryside it was a bit of a shock to suddenly cross over the boarder into the Czech Republic. In the rural areas particularly, I felt as if I had been transported back thirty years into the past, but along with that feeling came a sense of magic that can only be associated with eastern Europe.





We had a bit of an adventure getting to Prague from Nuremberg, which is only about a three hour drive by car. We set off at 8:30 in the morning by train from Nuremberg. An hour on one train, then a switch while we were still in Germany. 40 minutes on another train, and then, because the tracks were broken, we had to take a bus for two hours instead. Another switch, another train for 40 minutes, and finally, three trains, a bus, and eight hours later we arrived, exhausted and disheveled, at Hlavní Nádraží, the main train station of Prague. 


Czech Crowns - this is about $100 US
Exhausted from our lengthy transit, my friends and I settled into our hotel room (with a real live TV and our own bathroom!). The next morning dawned bright and beautiful, turning the already astounding beauty of Prague into something magical. There is a reason Prague is considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world.


Old Powder Tower
Mozart directed the world premiers of many of his pieces in this theater.

The sun reflecting off these houses made them appear to be made out of gold.
Clock tower with oldest astronomical clock in the world.
Lunch of Czech goulash in a bread bowl and Czech beer

The Prague castle is considered the largest castle in Europe, boasting a huge cathedral, a palace, numerous churches dating back to the 1200s, and many other buildings.


Gorgeous cathedral built on a hill. It towers over the entire city.
Palace
King Wenceslas (yes he was a real person) chapel

The window above was where the infamous Prague Defenestration took place. In 1618, a mob of Protestants chucked three Catholic Lords out this window, starting the 30 years war, the greatest conflict in Europe until WWI.

Room in Palace dating back to the 1200s
Me with the Czech flag overlooking Prague
 Wednesday evening, we attended the opera Rusalka by Antonin Dvorak in the most stunning opera house I have ever set foot in. It was like something directly out of the Phantom of the Opera.


Trdelník - Czech pastry baked on a spit over a fire
Easter Market in the main square
Karlov Most (Charles Bridge) on my right with the Prague Castle on the hill in the background
Statue on the Karlov Most
My last full day in Prague I spent the morning exploring Vyšehrad, a historical fort built in the 10th century. It has high walls surrounding it which visitors can amble along and experience a beautiful view of Prague. This was my favorite place in Prague, and I just happened to point to it on the map because I needed something to do.

Path along the old fort walls
11th century tower
Old church inside the fort walls

There was a gorgeous graveyard behind the church!
Garden paths in the old fort grounds
View of the Vltava River

Our last evening in Prague was spent going down the Vltava river on a jazz boat. It was beautiful and completely relaxing, the perfect way to end our lovely stay in this magical city.


Of all the places I have been in Europe thus far, Prague was the only city I had to keep continually pinching myself to let myself know that it was real, that I was actually in the Czech Republic. I think this is partly because if it had not been for my program trip, I probably would not have come to this city on my own. There is something about the small eastern European countries that are filled with mystery. I knew nothing about the Czech Republic or Prague before going there, but I am absolutely glad I did.

Posts to come on Riesa and Dresden, as well as my Easter with German relatives in Cologne!

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